I did accidentally once and it burnt out the voltage regulator circuit in the autopilot! Many thanks for the lengthy & helpful reply!I am setting my outboard up to plug into a deck socket, and there is already a deck socket for the TP10 - and I see from the handbook that it's a screwjack, not a stepper motor - but I don't like the noise, although to be fair it isn't very loud.I have read the entire Yamaha Manual from front to back, and still no mention of electrical output.
My 5watt panel is a bit more than a foot square overall.A controller is advised for panels over 10watts but below that 10 watts into a 90 or 110 Ah battery is OK without a controller and 5 watts into anything over about 45 Ah is also OK.BTW dont operate your autopilot dierctly from the outboard without the battery connected.
We know that proper alternators are susceptible to that and they say the same for outboard charging systems.It would be just the ticket for a smallish solar panel charging a very small battery. If it is sudden it might cause a surge that would harm the rectifier. QUOTE I just spotted this at Maplin./ QUOTE It appears that its max current rating is only 1.5 amps.Even if rated at a higher current I would be a bit concerned about it used in conjunction with an outboard charging system because it simply switches off once the battery is charged.
Yamaha 25 hp outboard charging system full#
QUOTE I am still pondering whether the 22V bit is a problem/ QUOTE What you are seeing is normal for the rectified but unregulated output from the charging system of a small outboard.Without looking it up I'd guess that the maximum output from your charging system will be 5 or 6 amps at 12volts, but that will be at full revs.
Bearing in mind the 25 watt bit of the rectifier spec, surely I cannot put too much juice into the battery, as at 12v I'll max out the rectifier at 2A?I am still pondering whether the 22V bit is a problem, but since the heating of the battery is the enemy, I reckon this should be safe, as the minute any current flows the voltage will drop accordingly.Can anyone spot the flaw in Baldrick's cunning plan? If so please let me know before I fry my battery. I have a 5HP Yamaha 2-stroke - the 5CS - and using a 25 watt silicon bridge rectifier I am getting 12.8 volts at idle and around 22 volts at mid throttle. Perhaps If I had a gel battery I might be more concerned. I do not normally run the engine fast enough or for long enough for it to do much in the the way of charging, and certainly overcharging is no concern whatsoever at least not with a decent sized flooded lead acid battery. But I might try and find out.Generally the the small ones have a max output of 5 or 6 amps and only achieve this at max revs.For all practical purposes I disregard the battery charging capability of my Evinrude Yachtwin. What little I know about outboards is really confined to Johnnyrudes.Larger engines from OMC especially those with power operated tilt and trim are fitted with higher output stators and rectifiers combined with regulators. I have found some regulators designed for solar panels, but they don't take into account supplying heavy (100 amps!) current back to the starter motor.Thus is my predicament when it comes to safely charging the house (other than using a separate on-deck generator, or going totally solar). After going in circles between the company, and the numerous dealers they referred me to, nobody has a clue.
0 kommentar(er)
